Cabinets and countertops
offer the much-needed storage space in the bathroom to
store your toiletries, keep medicines and first-aid
box, cleaning milk, moisturizer and deodorants, towels
and napkins besides other things that you use daily
while showering in your bath. They are powerful
accents to your bath décor and help you to define the
tone and style of the bathroom and make the best use
of the wall and floor surface of the area. They also
are pivotal in keeping your bath well organized and
efficient. Here are some tips that you can use while
installing cabinets and countertops in the bathroom to
give them the trendy look you have always desired:
Medicine cabinets often go in the back or
sidewalls that frame the vanity and it's easier to put them in
before the vanity. Also, take the doors off all the cabinets
to avoid damaging them during installation. Fit the cabinet
snugly between the 2 x 4's in the stud wall. At the proper
height, box in an opening in the drywall between the studs and
slide the cabinet in. Level the top of the frame and secure
it. Many vanity cabinets go together with the drawers in or
between two cabinets. Most don't have the top fastened because
it's easier to handle and fit that later. Using a level, find
the floor's high point to determine the cabinets' high point.
Mark a level line through that point across
the wall. That reference line guides all the cabinet tops.
Intersect that line with a plumb line down the middle. Any
middle cabinet goes in first. Draw a line down the center of
its back and line it up with the guide line. Transpose pipe
locations to the cabinet back and drill pipe holes with a
spade bit. Slide the cabinet into place, level the top and
secure it to the wall studs with drywall screws. Flush and
plumb the other cabinets. Use a wood clamp to tie the front
frames together and screw them together.
NOTE: A gap is often left where a cabinet
meets the wall. Fill it in with a trim piece cut to fit snugly
in the gap. Screw through the cabinet 's side frame into the
trim's side to fasten them.
Cut and fit 3/4" plywood to cover the
vanity top. From the center reference line used to set the
cabinets, find the center point of the cabinet front. Center
the countertop and secure it to the tops of the cabinets using
drywall screws up through the bottom. For an added touch,
build up the edges of the countertop. This also prevents the
doors/drawers from hitting the trim pieces. For trim, we added
3/4" plywood strips cut to fit along the edges that were
held with a bead of construction adhesive and screws. Mark the
centerpoints for the sink opening(s) and draw a center line
connecting the points. Vanities usually include a template to
outline the sink opening. Use the reference line to position
the template and trace around it. Drill a pilot hole to start
the jig saw blade and cut out the opening. Now the countertop
is ready for tiling.
WARNING: Most laminate countertops are glued
with very flammable cement. Work in a well-ventilated area,
avoid open flames (like furnace pilots) and always follow the
manufacturer's directions.
Particleboard is an inexpensive material for
making laminate countertops. Cut a 4 x 8 sheet of
particleboard to size and add bottom supports where joining
pieces. With construction adhesive, glue on any edge pieces
and test-fit the countertop. Use a utility knife (to score
then snap), jig saw or circular saw (fine-toothed blade) to
cut laminate pieces. Which side you cut laminate depends on
the tool. Cut a scrap piece first on both the front and back
to see which way cuts smoothest and chips less. Apply contact
cement to both laminate and particleboard edge pieces. Once
the cement dries to the touch, carefully line up the pieces
and attach the laminate.
Use a rolling pin or roller to make good
contact and to squeeze out any air bubbles.
NOTE: Once the laminate and cement come into
contact they usually stay that way and are difficult to
reposition. Use cardboard or kraft paper inserts between the
pieces to position and line them up.
Let the edges set up as directed. Then cut
off the excess with a router using a carbide laminate-trimming
bit. Glue the top piece the same way. Apply contact cement to
both the laminate and particleboard. Let them dry to the touch
and use cardboard strips to position the laminate. Pull out
the strips, press laminate into place with a rolling pin or
roller and router the edges flush. To fasten the countertop,
insert spacer blocks underneath the top cabinet bracing at the
corners and screw through the blocks and into the countertop.
Installing A Laminate Backsplash
A laminated backsplash can also be attached
to the countertop with drywall screws drilled from the bottom
side of the countertop. Since the wall may not be totally
even, leave off the top laminate piece of the backsplash. Butt
it tight to the wall, glue it down and trim the front edge
flush. Or, belt sand the backside of the backsplash to fit the
wall. Dryfit the countertop and once it's positioned correctly
on the cabinets drive screws up through the cabinet framing
into the countertop.
